A nation pays respects

They came from down the road and from across the country, trailing flags and portraits in their wake. They paused to pin thin black ribbons and coarse patches of cloth onto blazing white shirts.

And, one by one, starting early yesterday morning, Cambodian mourners lined the streets of Phnom Penh to meet the King Father’s body as it returned to its homeland.

By the time the plane carrying the late King Father Norodom Sihanouk touched down at Phnom Penh International Airport yesterday afternoon, the crowd across the capital had swelled to more than a million people, by Ministry of Information estimates – although the municipality put the figure at closer to 100,000.

In front of the Royal Palace, along Russian Boulevard, up and down roads both large and small, the streets filled as Cambodians gathered en masse to pay their respects to a man who, despite a complex life, remained beloved by many of his compatriots until the end.

On a scorching-hot day, students and the elderly, monks, families and foreigners alike took shade under the limited trees, picking out the best spots to view the procession.

“People have shown their attachment to him today,” said Seng Valath, an undersecretary of state at the Ministry of Interior, who was watching the procession from outside the airport.

“For many people, this is their last chance to say goodbye.”

At the edge of Phnom Penh International Airport, hundreds of young men scaled the walls, propping themselves at the top of the fences leading to the airstrip in the hopes of catching of glimpse of the plane.

As the Air China flight landed, the crowd grew quiet. By 3pm, a sombre King Norodom Sihamoni, hand in hand with a teary-eyed Queen Mother Norodom Monineath Sihanouk, had made their way to the tarmac toward a waiting delegation of hundreds of monks, ministers and diplomats.

Prime Minister Hun Sen and Prince Norodom Ranariddh followed behind, greeting those offering condolences.

Carried off the plane by 10 palace soldiers, the casket was placed in a traditional golden swan float leading the convoy of hundreds back to the Royal Palace. As the procession snaked across town, mourners dropped to their knees in prayer.

“I’m feeling very regretful today,” said 20-year-old Mam Oudom, a university student who came with 15 of his friends to pay his respects.

“This was our king of Cambodia, and I could not concentrate on studying today. I had to join the parade of people.”

The crowd grows

By early afternoon the small cluster of people gathering at the Royal Palace and Independence Monument had become tens of thousands as mourners dressed mostly in white streamed across the blocked-off city streets.

Just south of the palace at Wat Botum, 71-year-old Seng Oeun and 19 other lay people, as well as five monks, ate a lunch of rice and mackerel under the shade of a tree.

“I came to mourn for the King’s spirit,” said Oeun, who had travelled from Kampong Speu province with his cohorts to welcome the King Father’s body back to Cambodia.

“We were all sad and shocked when we got the information of his death. He sacrificed for the country... and he played the role of co-ordinator to unify the nation.”

Along with his companions, Oeun had scraped together $100 to pay for a portrait of Sihanouk, a funeral wreath and transportation from his home province.

To Oeun’s eyes, it was Sangkum Reas Niyum – the period from independence in 1953 that lasted until the threat of war set in about 1970 – that marked the golden era of Sihanouk’s reign.

Outside the palace, groups vied to scrawl condolence notes in a set of books placed on a table in front of the palace, and photographers for hire handed out small portraits of the late King Father for people posing for a souvenir.

As mourners jostled for space along the palace walls, a young man knelt down on the concrete. He poured a bottle of water over his head and bowed in front of a huge image of the late King Father Sihanouk staring out over the scene. He put his hands together and closed his eyes and prayed as a monk started shaving off his hair.

“I am so full of sorrow to lose him,” said a 68-year-old nun from Eth Reus Pagoda in Kandal province, wiping her tears.

“He should have lived longer. Without him, people will live with no calm in mind, but we wish the soul of the King to continue protecting his people.”

Vendors wandered up and down the parks, hawking flowers, incense, candles and pictures. “In a normal day we sell 100,” said Srey Nech, a 17-year-old lotus flower vendor who a day earlier had doubled the price to 1,000 riel. “Today it’s 200.”

Across Phnom Penh markets, sellers were doing brisk business. In Phsar Chas, mourners rushed to pick up framed portraits and pieces of black cloth.

Chan Ny, owner of a produce stall, said she and other vendors had begun selling ribbons at prices that barely turned a profit but which met a public need.

A young man paused to pick up a pin for 1,000 riel.

“I was in panic when I heard that our King had died. Not only me, but all Cambodians feel this sadness,” said Sokha.

“So I bought this [ribbon] to show we all share in mourning for our former king. He is a father and grandfather to all Cambodians, and is our hero who won us our independence.”

Sourced: Phnom Penh Post