Batdambang, Cambodia

BATTAMBANG is one of Cambodia's biggest cities, but it's a world apart from Phnom Penh's urban bustle, enjoying an unhurried pace and a reputation for friendliness. The city, however, is keen not to get left behind in the country's recent surge of development and modernization. French-colonial-era terraces on the riverside are rapidly filling with private English-language schools and mobile-phone shops. The busiest Battambang gets, however, is at the central market, Psar Nat, where gemstones from the town of Pailin,

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