Lao Tourism: The charms of Champasak

The noise of children shouting really caught my attention. When I looked out from our hotel boat cruising along the middle of the Mekong in Champasak province in southern Laos, many children along the river banks waved at us. Some also ran after the 33-metre-long Vat Phou boat and yelled things like "'bye bye" and "woo hoo".

At one village after another along the banks of this mighty river, the greeting voices of kids accompanied the noise of longtail boats that fishermen ride to catch fish all day and night.Staying overnight on board, you will have a chance to see sunrise and sunset over the Mekong - if the weather is clear.

The scenery of this part of Laos might not be as popular as the north, where the old capital Luang Prabang is located. Visitors come here for a day or two-day trips to visit Vat Phou, the Unesco World Heritage-listed Khmer ruins and Khone Phapheng, the largest falls in Southeast Asia.

However, there is another way to enjoy Champasak, and you will need at least five days to combine a slow boat trip, that will cruise further south, with a land journey a little further north of the province to Bolaven Plateau (Phu Phieng Bolaven in Lao), which boasts coffee plantations and plunging waterfalls. The latter are a must-see when you travel in this province.

You can start from a boat trip, spending three days cruising along the Mekong between Pakse, the capital of Champasak province, and Si Phan Don (Four Thousand Islands), where you can explore colonial houses, and visit Li Phi Falls or Tad Som Pha Mit, another large waterfall on the river.

The Vat Phou boat also stopped at villages along the river banks, such as Ban Dueta where you can walk around the fishing and farming community to observe how they live. Some locals prepared fishing nets or fixed a giant fishing trap to drop in the middle of the river. Others disembarked from their paddle boats with fish and many toiled in the ricefields or farm.

"I am glad we have visitors," said a farmer who was digging up shallots in her small plot near the river bank. "Their visits make us realise that we have something valuable that make them call at our village," she added with smile.

Another stop is Ban Tomo Nai where an ancient Khmer structure is hidden in the forest. Locals call it Vat Oum Muong and it is believed to have been built in the 9th century. However, the ruins are secluded and you will need a guide to lead the way.

The boat also made a stop at Champasak town, the old capital of Laos. Here you will find old colonial-style residences of the family of Prince Boun Oum na Champasak, the last king of southern Laos before the French took over. Champasak is also the famed stop for the must-see Vat Phou.

After the trip, the boat will take you to Pakse, the transportation hub of the south due to its location at the crossroads between the north-south national highway Route 13 leading to Khone Phapheng and Si Phan Don, and the east-west highway Route 23 linking the town with Ubon Ratchathani.

However, Pakse is not a photogenic destination, since it is the most modern city in the province. Here you will find five-star hotels including a former palace of Prince Boun Oum which has been renovated and turned into the Champasak Grand Palace hotel. Pakse is also a hub for trading, especially freshwater fish from Mekong, in Dao Heuang morning market.

The town is also an easy base for you to hire a songthaew or take a bus to various destinations in the city including the northern part at Bolaven Plateau in Paksong district.

Situated about 1,500 metres above sea level, the Bolaven Plateau has pleasant weather all year round. The rich volcanic soil and cool climate make the area ideal for producing fine Arabica coffee beans and tea. The famous Dao coffee company also has a large factory here where they also sell coffee trees to farmers and buy back their produce.

The famous stops of the Bolaven Plateau are waterfalls _ Tad Fane, which are twin falls 120 metres high, Tad Yuang, which are 42 metres high, and the 80-metre high Tad Huay Champee as well as the six-metre high Tad Pha Suam. There is also a museum of ethnic groups living near by.

The list of destinations in Champasak province can go on and on, and one trip is not enough to experience all the natural beauty and historical places of this southwestern province. But the most important thing that makes people want to come back to Laos is surely the hospitality of these honest and friendly people.

Source = bangkokpost